In the night from 23th to 24th August I have gone to Bohor to take some photos of Elephant’s trunk, but I had to end taking photos about at midnight because the object passed the meridian and I couldn’t track it anymore. I had to make quick decision which object to capture the rest of the night and I choose the dark nebulas B334, 336-7 in Aquila, near Altair. I had no internet and I hadn’t a clue how this nebula looks like. Some of dark nebulas are really breath-taking and impressive (who doesn’t know Horsehead). Well, mine isn’t so spectacular, but I am pretty satisfied with the result. The next day I have checked the google image search for this nebula and found nothing, which means that I am one of the first who decided to “burn” his CMOS sensor on this object for some hours After all, that counts as well …

Here you go:

Dark Nebulas B334, B336, B337 @ photo: Primož Cigler

Some technical data about the exposure, equipment and so on:

Object: B334
Date and Location: 23. 8. 2009, Oslica, Bohor
Exposition: 26 x 5min
Camera: Canon 350D, Baader mod., ISO 800, RAW
Optics: Orion Optics Europa 20cm f/4.5
Mount: Vixen GP-DX SS2K
Autoguiding: SW 80/400 with QHY5
Processed in: Iris, Ps

Object: M31 and M32 (Andromeda Galaxy)
Date and Location: 20. and 21. 8. 2009, Mali Orehek, Slovenia
Exposition: 2×1 mosaic: 30 x 5min and 36 x 5min
Camera: Canon 350D, Baader mod., ISO 800, RAW
Optics: Orion Optics Europa 20cm f/4.5
Mount: Vixen GP-DX SS2K
Autoguiding: SW 80/400 with QHY5
Processed in: Iris, Ps

M31 and M32 @ photo: Primož Cigler

I hope you like it, I am very satisfied with the result. More is coming soon…

Bolid -5 mag. above me, capturing the night sky

And here is the timelapse of the entire night. I have tagged the meteor:

I admit, I am lazy and that’s why I don’t finish up my Astrophotography Tutorial. I hope that I will find more inspiration, time and will to finish it up in September, because in October I start studying Physics at Ljubljana…

The images of the objects I listed above will be published here soon. As soons as I process them

CS!

“Hi,

My name is Mathew Oehler, and over the past several months I have become more interested in astrophotography, after having general photography as a hobby for about 6 years.

Last year a family friend was gracious enough to give me a 100mm Orion refractor telescope, and I have gotten excellent use out of it in viewing Saturn, Jupiter, and the Orion nebula among other things.  More recently I purchased a T-ring that enabled me to connect my Canon Rebel to the telescope, and was disappointed in its capability.  I would ideally like something designed to reach deeper, so I can get some clearer shots of nebulas and galaxies. I have heard that Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes are designed for this purpose, but I’m having trouble finding good information amongst the sea of astrophotography information on the internet.  Are SC telescopes good for this, and will a standard one have an equatorial mount that I can put a motor onto?

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide me!”

The answer is not very simple (as always). The main reason why SCTs are so popular telescopes is their portability and compact size. They have a short optical tube because the light goes three times through it before it reaches the focus. The consequence is that they have long focal length comparing to diameter of the primary mirror which means slow optics (high f-ratio) – typically between f/8 and f/12. And here’s the catch! F-ratio is a king at photography because it tells you how many light the optics gathers per pixel. The lower f-ratio means more light, which means lower ISO setting (less noise) and shorter exposition to go deeper. This is the main reason why SCTs are not so good and popular among astrophotographers. In spite the fact they are compact, they have long focal length, small field of view (a lot of nebulas on the sky are larger than the diameter of the Moon) and require long exposition. Usually they come with mounts which are not capable to guide accurate enough to achieve pin-point stars at longer expositions (5min and more). All their characteristics suits for planetary and moon imaging, where longer focal lengths are needed and guiding is not so critical. On good mounts and with company of high detective CCD cameras they are good optical instruments for small planetary nebulas and galaxies, but I would highly dissuade this type of imaging the deep sky from beginners.

Mathew, I suppose that you have an achromatic telescope, because I have heard just good things about 100mm APO Orion refractor and it is good imaging instrument. I suggest you to start imaging at wide angle, since this is the easiest and the cheapest option. DSLR in combination with kit lens is good start point and your first object are star trails (if you don’t have a mount with tracking) or Milky Way (if you have the mount). It’s good to have in mind that you need to “build” your equipment from the ground, that means that first you need a good tripod, then mount and at the end the optics and camera. Note that good mount is astrophotographer’s best friend and it’s worth to buy a good one in the beginning, because you can put on whatever you want (just camera with kit lens or 16 inch RC). Later on you can buy a telephoto lens or APO middle-sized refractor which has many many objects in range (practically all the M catalogue and long list of NGC objects). If you are interested in little smaller objects you may find 8-10 inch f/4-f/6 high-quality Newton good instrument as well. At the end there are more exotic telescopes like SCTs, RCs which cost a fortune and need very expensive and good mounts (in range of 6000+ USD).

I hope I have answered to your question. You are welcome to leave a comment if I haven’t.

And if anyone have a question related to astrophotography just contact me. I’ll try my best to solve your problem …

Last week we had some clear skies out here and on Thursday I decided to go to the near hill named Bohor to caputre the Rho Ophiuchi region, which is a large cloud of colorful nebulas, a part of Milky Way. June is the only month when this region is accessible to photograph from our latitude because it comes the highest on the night sky – about 20 degrees. Se we had clear skies, warm weather, no moon – perfect astrophotography conditions. I packed my mount Vixen GP-DX with SkySensor 2000 PC to the case with all the accessories and went to the Bohor to take some shots. I arrived there 2 hours before the astronomic night, prepared everything, aligned the mount, focused my modified Canon 350D with Canon 70-200 f/4.0 IS L lens and waited for the night. I started shooting at 23.45 LT. After first two shots I saw that everything works OK and went into the car, watching a movie for two hours. When  the film finished I was planning to take some darks and then to go home but when I checked the destination folder for images on my laptop I immediately noticed that something had gone wrong – THERE WERE JUST 6 PICTURES!!! OMG, I was awake till 4 a. m., getting just 6 frames. There was noting else to do, I had about half and hour till the dawn so I packed up the mount and everything and went home.

Nevertheless, on Sunday I decided give it a try and I processed the image. Honestly, I suspected to be worse, but it’s far from that I was planning to do. So here you have, Rho Ophiuchi nebula, not so perfect:

Rho Ophiuchi region @ 6 x 5min, ISO 800, RAW. Author: Primož Cigler

I hope that next time I will show something more attractive. And which are yours most common troubles you are dealing with?

Thanks for reading!

I managed to make a new cable for QHY5 so now it works with SkySensor autoguiding port. With that I decreased the number of cables from laptop to my mount from 5 to 3. Now I need only USB connection between PC and Camera, Bulb shutter release cable and USB connection with QHY5, which is great. I am planning to buy a new CCD for astrophotography so after that I will need only 2 cables. No more mess around the scope, finally!

So, I have just processed the image, the result is shown below:

Spiral Galaxy M51 @ 26 x 5min, ISO 800, RAW

I have also taken a shot of my equipment, at the “working” state

My Astrophotography Equipment

The first impression was very positive! Even though it is “made in China” it looks very well designed and made. The build quality is on very high level. It is not plastic like Atik, but metallic. The original package comes with camera, T-2 to 1,25″ nosepiece adapter, USB cable and setup instructions. I have also ordered RJ-11 cable for direct autoguiding via camera.

I got impressed when I unscrewed the nosepiece because of the size of the CCD. It seems really huge comparing to tiny CCD detectors in webcams (Atik ATK-2HS also uses ordinary 640×480 one). The resolution is 1280 x 1024, more specification are available at the QHY website.

QHY5 without nosepiece

The best thing is that QHY5 has T-2 thread which perfectly fits to my autoguiding telescope so I can just screw it on.

QHY5 on the autoguiding telescope

As you can notice it has two ports in the back side. One is USB 2.0 port for connection with the computer and another is ST-4 compatible autoguiding port for direct connection with the mount. I am using Vixen SkySensor hand-controller and I though that it is compatible but in fact it isn’t, because Vixen uses it’s own standard for autoguding. The connector is the same but wires are connected differently so today I am going to make a new cable. The camera has also build-in red LED diode which is too bright and could be disturbing in a completely dark so I pasted a black stripe over it.

Back side of QHY5

The camera comes with one A4 paper sheet of instructions how to setup. The drivers are not included, you have to download it from the Modern Astronomy site. The setup is really simple, you just install the generic driver and plug in the camera. Then you have to install additional driver for the autoguiding software you are using, in my case Guidemaster. All the main autoguiding software are supported, including ASCOM platform.

To sum up, I am very satisfied with the purchase. Two days ago I had a first light and everything worked fine. I was planning to capture M102 but ended with just 2 pictures because it clouded. This is 100% crop of one of them as a proof that camera guides OK:

100% crop of M102

I hope you enjoyed the review. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask under the comments

M86 with neighbours

I am very satisfied with the result because I have spent some nights outside recently without any useful pictures, because autoguiding wasnt’ working properly. I had to change some settings and now works again.

Yesterday I calibrated system again and did this shot of NGC2403 galaxy in Camelopardalis:

Galaxy NGC2403, taken with Orion Optics Europe f/4.5 on Vixen GP-DX SS2K @ Photo Credits: Primož Cigler

It’s composition of 26 exposures, each of 5min on ISO800 with Baader modified Canon 350D and IDAS LPS P2 filter. The mount was Vixen GP-DX with SkySensor 2000PC and the telescope Orion Optics Europe 8″ f/4.5. I processed image with Iris, Photoshop and Lightroom. It’s not my the best image of this object, but I am satisfied with a result because it’s a proof that everything is OK with the mount.

My Astrophotography tutorial will be continued as soon as I find more time.

Clear Skies!

The Newtonians, for example, are very handy and good instruments for astrophotography, though they need to be collimated very precisely and often. On the other hand ED and APO refractors are better, but they are much more expensive. The SCTs are compact and provides longer focal lengths but they are rarely well-made.
So the question is what telescope to choose for deep-sky astrophotography with DSLR camera?

There are several different answers, depending on our object to be captured. Let’s start with the largest: wide-field images of the sky. If you are planning to capture the wide-field images of the night sky you don’t need the telescope but the lens. This is because telescopes are optical instruments with longer focal lengths and that means smaller field of view (FOV) whereas the lenses has a really wide range of focal lengths, from 4mm up to 1200mm and more. The most common target in this range of objects is the Milky Way. This kind of astrophotography is especially appropriate for beginners because the auto-guiding is not necessary and most of the cameras already comes with “kit” lenses which have wide field of view.
One of my images of Milky Way in Cygnus taken with 50mm lens:

Mosaic of Milky Way taken with 50mm lens

Next step are large deep-sky objects. For this objects I recommend the middle-sized APO and ED refractors (80-120mm) or telephoto-lenses. If we have a good mount we still don’t need auto-guiding at this focal length but in most cases it’s better to use it if possible. The most common objects in this range are constellations, detailed locations of Milky Way, large nebula complexes (Orion) and bright comets. The next picture represents Comet Holmes as it was seen 8th January, 2008, taken with Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 lens:

Comet Holmes with Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 at 200 mm

Next are middle-sized deep-sky objects. The best focal lengths for them are from 1000 mm to 2000 mm. Newton telescopes and larger refractors has the most appropriate specifications for imaging this type of objects. The auto-guiding is really necessary here because just the best mounts can slew accurate enough to assure the pin-point stars at these magnifications. In this range we find almost all the object from Messier’s catalogue and the brightest NGCs. One of my pictures taken with Orion Optics Europa 8″ f/4.5 are Pleiades.

The last type of object, accessible to amateur astrophotographers, are smaller deep-sky object. They are mostly galaxies and planetary nebulas. Because they are small, we need long focal length to capture the details inside them. The SCTs and other catadioptric telescopes are the most appropriate for these objects.

So, now you know which objects are in the range of your equipment. I hope that you enjoyed reading.